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Introduction
Kyoto is Japan's cultural treasure house. With an astonishing
1600 Buddhist temples, 400 Shinto shrines, a trio of palaces,
dozens of perfectly sculptured gardens and museums housing some
20% of Japan's National Treasures, Kyoto ranks as one of the most
culturally rich cities on the planet. More than any other city
in Japan, Kyoto thrives on its ancient heritage. If you're seeking
the mist-shrouded enchantment of old Japan, Kyoto should be your
first stop.
While American firebombs annihilated Tokyo and nearby Osaka during
WWII, Kyoto - and its 1200 year history - was spared. Travelers
will be forced to look closely for signs of the city's past, however,
as Kyoto's ancient facade has been swept away in a euphoric rush
to modernize. It is struggling to reconcile development with preservation,
placing the glorious living museum of old Kyoto in the firing
line.
Meanwhile, ancient tea houses sit sandwiched between high-rise
apartments, sacred shrines are tucked neatly into shopping arcades
and exquisite kaiseki restaurants compete for customers with a
growing legion of McDonald's restaurants and pasta joints. Now
is a great time to visit Kyoto: The chequerboard of ancient and
high-tech spaces has become a high-stakes game, poised at a critical
moment.
Attraction
Guide
Kyoto Imperial Palace
The Imperial Palace was built in 794 AD and, after destruction
by fires, has undergone countless rebirths. Ceremonies related
to the enthronement of a new emperor and other state functions
are still held here, and the palace is full of priceless treasures,
including sliding screens adorned with Tosa school paintings.
The hall was initially used as living quarters for the emperor,
but was later set aside for ceremonial use only. Foreigners are
given preferential access to the palace and can usually obtain
permission to enter in a few hours (though sometimes it can stretch
to two days), while Japanese visitors - unless accompanied by
a foreigner as an interpreter - can sometimes wait months. Twice-yearly,
in spring and autumn, the palace grounds are chock-full when the
inner sanctum is opened to the public for several days.
Kyoto Station area
The area round Kyoto station, south of the city centre, is a fairly
drab part of town, but there are a number of must-sees within
walking distance of the train station, itself worth a visit. Prior
to 1997, the station was simply an unassuming point of transit.
Now it's a mini-city towering 16 storeys high. Massive and modern,
the station is a glass Titanic with a main concourse 27m (88ft)
wide, 60m (200ft) high and 470m (1540ft) long. The size and design
were extremely controversial, and groups such as the Buddhist
Association expressed outrage over the proposed height and facade.
Kyoto Tower, directly north of the station, is one of the city's
greatest architectural blunders. The 131m-high (430ft-high) tower
is said to represent a 'forever burning candle', but looks more
like a misguided space rocket. Many cite the 1964 construction
of the tower as the beginning of the end of Kyoto's once-graceful
skyline.
The Nishi Hongan-ji Temple was originally built in 1272 in the
Higashiyama mountains by Shinran's daughter, the priestess Kakushin.
The temple complex was relocated to its present site in 1591 and
became the headquarters of the Jodo Shinshu (True Pure Land) religious
school, which had accumulated immense power. It is still the headquarters
of a branch of the Jodo Shinshu, with over 10,000 temples and
12 million followers worldwide. The temple contains five buildings
featuring some of the finest examples of the architectural and
artistic achievement of the Momoyama period.
Nanzen-ji
Temple
The Nanzen-ji Temple is one of the most pleasant temples in Kyoto,
with its expansive grounds and numerous subtemples. It began as
a retirement villa for Emperor Kameyama but was dedicated as a
Zen temple on his death in 1291. Civil war in the 15th century
destroyed most of the temple; the present buildings date from
the 17th century, and now operates as the headquarters of the
Rinzai school.
At the entrance to the temple stands the massive 1628 San-mon
Gate, its ceiling adorned with Tosa and Kano school murals of
birds and angels. Steps lead up to the second storey, which has
a fine view over the city. Beyond the gate is the hojo (abbot's)
hall with impressive screens of vividly depicted tigers. Within
the precincts of the same building, the Leaping Tiger Garden is
a classic Zen garden well worth a look. While you're in the hojo,
you can enjoy a cup of tea while sitting on straw mats gazing
at a small waterfall. This is an inexpensive way to get a quick
taste of the tea ceremony in beautiful surroundings.
But perhaps the best part of Nanzen-ji is overlooked by most visitors:
a small shrine hidden in a forested hollow behind the main precinct.
Here, pilgrims pray while standing under the waterfall, sometimes
in the dead of winter. Hiking trails lead off in all directions
from this point; by going due north, you'll eventually arrive
at the top of Mt Daimonji-yama (2 hours), and east you'll get
to Yamashina (also about 2 hours). Dotted around Nanzen-ji's grounds
are several subtemples which are often skipped by the crowds and
consequently easier to enjoy.
Mt Hiei-zan & Enryaku-ji
Temple
A visit to the 848m-high (2782ft-high) Mt Hiei-zan and the vast
Enryaku-ji complex is a good way to spend a half day hiking, poking
around temples and enjoying the atmosphere of a key site in Japanese
history. Enryaku-ji was founded in 788 by Saicho, also known as
Dengyo-daishi, the priest who established the Tenzai school. At
its height, the temple possessed some 3000 buildings and an army
of thousands of sohei, or warrior monks. Today only three pagodas
and 120 minor temples remain, but they are still breathtaking.
Getting Around
Because central Kyoto is laid out in logical grids, it's an
easy city to get around by public transport, cycling or walking.
There is an intricate network of bus routes at a moderate price,
and many of the routes used by visitors have announcements in
English. There is also an efficient subway, without doubt the
quickest and easiest way to travel between the north and the south.
In 1997, after 8 years under construction (only 3 years late and
twice over-budget), the city completed the much awaited Tozai
line, which traverses town from east to west and then south-east.
Though for many the new line has brought greater convenience,
one sad casualty of the project was the removal of one of Kyoto's
last streetcar lines, along Sanjo-dori.
Getting around by car is less enticing, given Kyoto's traffic
problems, and you will almost always do better on a bicycle or
public transport. Unless you have specific needs, don't even entertain
the idea of renting a car to tour the city - far more cost and
headache than any traveller needs (plus parking ticket fines start
at US$140!). However, a car can be practical for touring some
of the outlying rural areas; remember, drive on the left hand
side of the road in Japan.
Kyoto is a great city to explore by bicycle; it's mostly flat
and there is a new bike path running the length of the Kamo-gawa.
Unfortunately, it has some of the world's worst public facilities
for bike parking, and many bikes end up stolen or impounded during
regular sweeps of the city (in particular near entrances to train/subway
stations).
Walking is often the best way to explore the city, taking away
the cost and concerns of traffic and parking and allowing you
the chance to wander through narrow back streets where you're
far more likely to catch a glimpse of old Kyoto. |
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